100 Reflections

On the morning of February 18th 2012, I took my place on the starting line with over 750 runners to embark on an ultra running journey with a combination of anticipation and trepidation about how I would fare over 100km of Hong Kong’s most scenic yet unforgivingly brutal terrain. What follows is a personal account of this epic journey that started with simply being thankful that I was even able to take my place. As I listened to the pre-race announcements, I thought back to the events of the past 10 ten days.

It had been a busy time leading up to the HK100 and so I was actually looking forward to tapering and resting up before the event. I planned my last run of 20km for 10 days before the HK100.  I ran one of my favourite trails up to Lo Fu Tau [老虎頭] and was easing into the second part of a comfortably flat 10km to finish with when I felt a sharp pain shoot through my right calf. As I pulled up on the side of the road, a thousand thoughts raced through my mind: “I’m injured”, “I won’t be able to run the HK100″, “It’s just minor, keep running, you’ll be alright”. I decided to keep running, praying that it was just a bout of nerval pain that had been rearing it’s head over recent weeks. I finished running the remaining 5 km along Tung Chung seafront but my calf was unusually sore.

Suffice to say that I was feeling pretty low over the following few days as I managed the calf as best I could while fretting about how I was going to tell all those who had sponsored me to run for Viva that I was no longer able to do so. I told a few close friends about the situation and waited to see the physio after 6 days to assess the calf. After some tests, it would be an understatement to describe my response as ‘chuffed’ when I was given the ‘green light’ to go and test it out with a short run. And so, with just four days before the HK100, I went for a 7km test run on flat terrain. The calf responded okay and I was confident enough to take my place on the starting line. But this was 100km.

 Start

My mindset had to adjust from wanting to run a fast time to simply finishing with time being a secondary consideration. This was a mentally tough predicament that I found myself in as I am a very competitive person by nature and do not normally approach any challenge with an attitude of ‘just finishing’. I am hard wired to push myself to the limit and yet I had been forced into a situation where I had to pose myself a new set of questions: ” What conservative pace should I go at?” ” Should I just walk some parts?” “At what point am I prepared to give up?”

The first few kilometers were a matter of trying to relax and enjoy the collective experience. I have learnt that to run with fear is to miss the essence of running and I intended to enjoy the simplicity of running without fear. There was a good atmosphere with runners full of good natured banter that typifies such events where adrenaline and nerves fuel the runner as he or she sets off into the unknown. Even though I had resolved myself to a strategy of conservatism, I found the pace comfortable and was passing runners during these early stages.

  

Photos: Ozzi Bai

Although I had started towards the back of the starting pack, I kept a sound pace along the stretches of trails, beaches and hills that lay between Pak Tam Chung [北潭涌] and Ham Tin［鹹田灣 where the first checkpoint awaited. It was at this point that I realised that I was actually ahead of my projected time. I started to believe that this could possibly turn out well after all. As we ran across the rugged Sai Kung [西貢] coastline with its remote and picturesque beaches, I heard a number of overseas runners remarking how beautiful these parts were and how they had never imagined that Hong Kong had such stunning countryside and coastlines. This was particularly the case as we ran along Long Ke Bay [浪茄灣] and around Tai Long Wan [大浪灣].  I was proud to be a Hong Konger who could lay claim to such beautiful areas.

I stayed with a runner from the USA while running through the first support point at East Dam. He was a secondary school teacher who was living in South Korea and typified some of the incredible people that you meet at such events. People run for a host of reasons but it takes a different breed of runner to set out to run 100km. The training demands and necessary mental fortitude that lies behind such an event is immense. Like me, each one of these runners had invested heavily and it was a privilege to share the trail with them.

I could sense a common bond that transcended culture & language. A bond that forges community and is not defined by spacial boundaries or demographics. I saw runners helping others who had fallen or were in distress. I caught one runner as he fell down a steep mud bank shortly after leaving Ham Tin checkpoint. These instances illustrated a difference that I have noticed between road races such as marathons and longer distance trail or fell running. I have ran a number of marathons in different countries and there is no comparison in terms of the depth of community and goodwill between runners that you find at an event such as the HK100.

Running 100km is more about challenging and pushing yourself than competing against a fellow runner.  Although, you still naturally want to run faster than the next person.  I briefly chatted with one runner from Shan Tung [山東] province on the Mainland and he concurred with similar observations and I watched as he made a point of greeting every hiker he passed by on the course. This was quite refreshing at a time when sentiment towards Mainlanders in Hong Kong is at a particularly low point.

Checkpoint 2 – Wong Shek Pier [28km]

When I arrived at Check Point 2 at Wong Shek [黃石, 28km], I was greeted by Nic Tse who helped with a quick water refill and remarked that I was 15 minutes ahead of my projected time. I had calculated a projected time for each checkpoint based on training and the circumstances. However, despite the seemingly conservative pace, I was ahead of schedule. I started to feel positive about the situation and dared to dispel the fears I had. I knew that anything could happen over the next 78km but I set off from Wong Shek Pier relaxed, upbeat and intending to continue enjoying the experience.

However, just a few kilometers later everything started to unfold. I could feel sciatic pain flaring up in my lower back and was shooting through the glute/piriformis and down my right leg. I have dealt with many a bout of sciatic pain while running and have learnt to ride the pain until it passes. This can last from 5km to as much as 30km. However, this felt more acute than usual and I was genuinely concerned. As a result, I was not able to eat and from 30 km onwards, every stride was made with a grimace as pain shot through my right side. I was going to try and ride it out as best that I could and hope that it did not last long. Unfortunately, this was to last far longer than any other previous occasion. I ran straight through Checkpoint 3 [36km] at Hoi Ha [海下]  as I had enough water and needed to keep a momentum going in light of the nerval pain.

“It does not matter how slowly you go as long as you do not stop” 孔子 [Confucius]

Running distances over 50km requires attention to detail such as maintaining hydration, nutrition, salt and electrolyte levels among other things. As soon as these are compromised then concentration dips, mistakes occur and the risk of injury increases. I was feeling pretty nauseous around the 35km point as I was unable to eat and as a result I was starting to feel tired to a point that was not normal during such early stages. I was abnormally fatigued and my balance was going out of kilter as I started to skim the top of rocks. This is a typical indication of pending trouble and one that I needed to address quickly.

I was looking forward to seeing my wife and daughter who were waiting at Check Point 4 in Yung Shue O [榕樹澳].  I had to dig deep and employ a simple strategy of breaking the stage into small sections such as aiming to reach the next tree or hill while constantly looking at my watch to work out when I would reach the next checkpoint.

Checkpoint 4 – Yung Shue O [45km]

At Checkpoint 4, I told my support team that I was not in good shape. The reality was that there was nothing that anybody could do and so it was with a sense of uncertainty that I left Yung Shue O. I knew that the real test lay ahead. The first 45km was relatively gentle compared to what was to come. There was over 50km remaining that included 4,500m of elevation gain over some brutal hills, stairs and uneven terrain. Even when fully fit this presents a serious challenge. The thought of facing this after struggling during the past 15km was a daunting prospect indeed.

Rooster Hill [雞公山, 399m] was the next climb and was to become the lowest point of the whole course. The nerval pain continued to shoot through my leg and I was moving far slower than normal. The climbs felt brutal and I could also feel a blister forming on the right foot. I had run long training runs in the months preparing for the HK100 and had easily dealt with blisters but this felt particularly raw and angry and I was conscious of every step that formed the descent from Rooster Hill towards Kei Ling Ha [企嶺下].

Checkpoint 5 – Kei Ling Ha [52km]

At Kei Ling Ha [企嶺下], I was warmly greeted by Gabbie, Anya, Christine, Flo, Kristy & Sharon who did a stellar job of helping to replenish water and provide a change of socks while I attempted to deal with the blister.

   

Photos: Fuse Choy

I sat down to inspect the blister and knew that I had to deal with it quickly or regret it. I just wanted to lance the blister then dry and dress it so I could continue running. However, the first aid staff at the Checkpoint were taking forever and a day to respond and so in frustration I changed socks, put my trail shoes back on, grabbed a banana and carried on running towards the awaiting hills.

However, it was only 20 minutes after leaving Kei Ling Ha that I was reduced to a painful shuffle as the blister was making it’s presence known. I reached a point on the crest of the hill above Kei Ling Ha where I simply could not keep running. I sat down at the side of the trail and took my shoe off to inspect the damage again. I knew I had to deal with this and so  took the safety pin off my race number, lanced the blister and hoped for the best. Once drained and dried, I put the sock back on and resumed running. I could worry about infections tomorrow. The steep ascents were now more bearable and upon reaching the higher ground I could take in views of Sha Tin [沙田] and Sai Kung on either side of the trail that leads to Ma On Shan [馬鞍山, 702m]. At this stage, the trail opened up into typical hard packed clay laced with fragmented rocks and I was able to return to a normal pace.

Photo: Sarah Lo

I caught up with another Mainland runner who struggled for a few kilometers before finally dropping just before Pyramid Hill [大金鐘, 536m]. He just sat down and that was the last I saw of him. It was while I was able to gain some running rhythm along Pyramid Hill, that my appetite returned and the nausea and nerval pain subsided. At last. It only took 60km to get there….

“Only those who will risk going too far can possibly find out how far they can go” T.S. Eliot

With this second wind, I picked up the pace at about the 60km mark and started passing other runners as I was able to stride out.  I felt energised and kept a steady pace as I ran over the plateau of Ngong Ping [昂平] and down the steep stairs that lead down the western face of Buffalo Hill [黃牛山, 606m] and towards the next checkpoint at Gilwell Camp [基維爾營] that lay 5km ahead.

Checkpoint 6 – Gilwell Camp [65km]

At Gilwell Camp checkpoint I polished off a bowl of noodles provided by one of the fantastic teenagers that were helping on the checkpoints. It has to be said that the army of volunteers that were on the checkpoints were fantastic ambassadors for Hong Kong and trail running. The temperature was dropping and so I quickly put on a jacket while Winfred & Mimi from my support team dealt with water refills and then I set off to try and make up lost time.

Progress was good between Gilwell Camp & Beacon Hill [筆架山] as I was able to pick up the pace and pass a number of runners along Taites Cairn [大老山] that offered fantastic views over the Kowloon Peninsula and through Sha Tin Pass [沙田坳].

Checkpoint 7 – Beacon Hill [73km]

I could hear the Beacon Hill [筆架山] checkpoint way before I could see the lights as the students were having a party on the checkpoint with loud music blaring over the hillsides as darkness fell. It was a great atmosphere and I put my headlamp on as I quickly moved on into the darkness. I passed runners who were sitting by the side of the stairs on the way up Beacon Hill [457m]. Some had the familiar look of resignation in their eyes. I offered words of encouragement but I feared that they could not carry on. I picked up a brisk pace as I led a pack of runners through the woodlands between Beacon Hill and Tai Po Road. I could hear the Macaques moving through the trees above as we ran. We crossed Tai Po Road and started the slow ascent up Golden Hill [金山] road that leads to Shing Mun reservoir [城門水塘].

Checkpoint 8 – Shing Mun Dam [83km]

It was so good to see my wife & daughter again who with Richard + Andrew did a fantastic job of supporting me with food + water replenishment while I changed shoes that were wearing thin. I could feel another blister forming and so hoped the change of shoes would help the situation I took a few slices of pizza and headed onwards to what I knew was the most brutal ascent of the whole course. Needle Hill [針山] is forever etched on my mind with its’ endless stairs that lead over two other lesser peaks before reaching the peak [532m]. I consider myself quite a strong hill runner but after 83km and almost 12 hours of running with quads that had been thrashed into numbness, then the spine of stairs that lead up the face of Needle Hill were a formidable opponent.

Fatigue was kicking in and my body was crying out to be allowed to lie down in the bushes on the hillside and rest. A few times I was about to sit down but forced myself on as I feared I might not get back up.  When I reached the peak, I turned around to see that despite my seemingly slow progress, I had actually opened a gap up between myself and the next runners that could only be seen by the headlamps in the distance.

The steep descent down the other side of Needle Hill brought me to the foot of Grassy Hill [草山] where the fog swirled in the cold wind that enveloped the road that I followed. I ran on my own with no other runners in sight and felt the familiar solitude that is part of any night time training run. Shortly after descending from Grassy Hill [647m], I could hear the voices and music that was echoing up the hillside from Checkpoint 9 at Lead Mine Pass [鉛礦坳] that marks the 86km point along the course.

Checkpoint 9 – Leadmine Pass [90km]

I was greeted by Ben + Simon who offered typically refreshing humour with slices of pizza. After a quick water refill, I pressed on towards the stairs that started the ascent up Tai Mo Shan [大帽山] which is Hong Kong’s highest peak at 957m. It was cold and foggy with very low visibility on the upper reaches of Tai Mo Shan. Progress felt slow as I climbed by headlamp and ran whenever the terrain allowed. Once I reached the road that leads to the summit, I caught another runner who remarked that we could possibly make it to the finish under 15 hours if we quickly covered the remaining 4 km of downhill.

I considered how I had set out that morning with a strategy of conservative running and had adjusted any time targets when going through the rough patch that lasted for over 30km. And here I was, sprinting down the road from Tai Mo Shan to the finishing line. I kept looking at my watch as it moved closer to 15 hours. I left the other runner behind as I ran on pure adrenaline, knowing that I was close to completing 100km over hills and peaks that amounted to a total elevation gain of 4,500m [14,800 ft]. I could hear the shouting and voices getting closer and then there it was, the finish line with cheering spectators. I sprinted over the line from the darkness and mist of the hills into the surreal surroundings of bright lights. music + spectators greeting runners with hot drinks and food. I looked at my watch 14 hours 58 minutes 45 seconds.

 Finish – Route Twisk [100km]

The following minutes were surreal. After 15 hours of running on my own through daylight and darkness with just my thoughts for company, there I was with familiar faces, music and food. I was so caught up in the moment that I forgot to officially register that I had finished. I did so after talking to other runner and was informed that my official finishing time was 15 hours dead.

The satisfaction was sweet not only on a personal level after setting out early that morning not knowing if I could finish. But also for those who had so generously sponsored and supported me. I thought about the children that would benefit from this epic adventure and also the children in Hong Kong and the UK who had given their pocket money to sponsor me as well as those who had given so much out of very little. I had achieved a dream but this had gone beyond something that was simply a deeply personal experience to one that would have an impact upon the lives of others through the work of Viva.

And so, will I attempt the HK100 next year considering all that happened during my first 100km?

You bet I will…..

This account is my reflection upon this milestone in my running journey and yet like other like-minded runners who strive to push themselves to new levels, I am already considering the next challenge where I can apply the lessons learnt from this experience. For a race report that provides an overview of the event then I recommend Andre Blumberg’s excellent race report on the Ultra168 site.

HK100 course route

Acknowledgements:

A massive thanks to those who gave up their time to wait on remote checkpoints to support me as I passed through: Gabbie & Anya [my amazing wife & daughter], Nic, Sharon, Flo, Christine, Kristy, Winfred, Mimi, Andrew [who still turned up when very ill], Richard , Ben + Simon.

Viva – it was an absolute privilege to play a small part in your cause and I look forward to future partnership.

Additional Photo credits:

Starting Line: Michael Ma

East Dam: Vibram HK Official

Wong Shek Approach: Bernie Kwok

HK100 30km Photo: Pong Pong Law

Anya Waiting at Kei Ling Ha: Sharon Wolstencroft

Gilwell Camp: Winfred Wan

Shing Mun Dam: Andrew Gardener

Needle Hill: Ben Tse

Finish Line: Ben Sheehan